Bob from United States, VA Public Profile

So it depends on which sear you are working with. For the sear on a Taurus PT 1911 I had to place a shim between the adjustment screw and the base of the sear. Ideally you would want to polish across the tip of the sear, tangential to the arc of the sear rotation (assuming the sear and hammer alignment are correct). It is a little difficult to judge the angle at which the sear should be held without a mark on the top of the jig and this issue was not discussed in the instructions from Ed Brown.

Using a fine Arkansas stone, and the shim provided, I made smooth work of the job using this jig. The poorly finished MIM sear that came from Taurus cleaned up very nicely. Now I have a clean and solid trigger. I also have a tool that can be used for many future trigger jobs, especially when I order a better quality hammer and sear (soon).

Before reassembly, I found it very useful to briefly mount the hammer and sear on the outside of the frame using extended pins. This allowed me to directly examine the hammer/sear interaction using a jeweler's loop to assure correct (90 degree) alignment between the tip of the sear and the hammer hooks.

You also need a 1000 grit 90 degree stone to do the hammer hooks. I was able to find that on amazon.