BrotherJack from United States, ID Public Profile

First, I am a huge fan of 2-stage triggers. My very first big game rifles were sporterized 303 Enfield and Mauser actions that came with 2-stage triggers, so I learned to shoot on 2-stages, and they just feel like home to me. Whenever possible, I outfit all my guns (bolt action or AR based) with a good 2 stage trigger. I haven't used all of the ones that are out there, but I've used LaRue (on AR's), Geissele (on both Rem 700's and AR's), Timney (on Interarms and Tikka's), as well as the aforementioned Mauser and Enfield. Because of that, I feel like I have some basis on which to judge this as a 2-stage trigger beyond just "hey, I like it".

All that said above - this is the best 2-stage trigger I've ever used. The first stage is not super-long (but it's long enough), the 2nd stage is super-crisp, and there's no perceptible over-travel once the trigger breaks. The trigger shoe is reasonably wide, nicely flat, and the safety is smooth operating and not gritty at all. Mine came out of the box so perfectly set (1 lb 1st stage, 1.75 lb 2nd stage) that I haven't even touched the adjustments (though I may bump the 2nd stage up to 2lbs for hunting use).

* Note, this 2-stage has a wide/flat trigger shoe. The TriggerTech Single-Stage I own has a narrow and serrated shoe, which is not at all the same.

The specific points that make this better than the Geissele Rem 700 trigger, are that the 2nd stage is heavier than the 1st (as it should be). No amount of adjusting the Geissel

First, I am a huge fan of 2-stage triggers. My very first big game rifles were sporterized 303 Enfield and Mauser actions that came with 2-stage triggers, so I learned to shoot on 2-stages, and they just feel like home to me. Whenever possible, I outfit all my guns (bolt action or AR based) with a good 2 stage trigger. I haven't used all of the ones that are out there, but I've used LaRue (on AR's), Geissele (on both Rem 700's and AR's), Timney (on Interarms and Tikka's), as well as the aforementioned Mauser and Enfield. Because of that, I feel like I have some basis on which to judge this as a 2-stage trigger beyond just "hey, I like it".

All that said above - this is the best 2-stage trigger I've ever used. The first stage is not super-long (but it's long enough), the 2nd stage is super-crisp, and there's no perceptible over-travel once the trigger breaks. The trigger shoe is reasonably wide, nicely flat, and the safety is smooth operating and not gritty at all. Mine came out of the box so perfectly set (1 lb 1st stage, 1.75 lb 2nd stage) that I haven't even touched the adjustments (though I may bump the 2nd stage up to 2lbs for hunting use).

* Note, this 2-stage has a wide/flat trigger shoe. The TriggerTech Single-Stage I own has a narrow and serrated shoe, which is not at all the same.

The specific points that make this better than the Geissele Rem 700 trigger, are that the 2nd stage is heavier than the 1st (as it should be). No amount of adjusting the Geissel

This thing works WAY better than I expected. I expected it would be basically a thread protector, with barely noticeable (but noticeable) recoil reduction. Wow, this reduced a lot more than "barely noticeable" amounts of recoil on my 43X MOS. With the gun fully decked out (Streamlight TLR7sub, Holosun EPS, +5 magazine) and this comp, I was able to mag-dump 20 rounds as fast as I could run the trigger (and I can run a trigger pretty fast) into an approx 14 by 14 inch target (end of a stump) at 10 yards, and keep the dot on the target under recoil. Without this comp, the dot 100% rises above the target with every shot.

Also, for comparison, I shot this exact same gun with

a) A uncomp'ed barrel
b) an extended and ported (at the tip) barrel
c) A Micro Dagger C1 slide (the slide itself has ports in the end) (note: no red dot on this one)

This comp worked significantly better than the stock/uncomp'ed barrel. It worked very noticeably better than extended+ported barrel (which surprised me). And, I am shocked to say, this comp worked 100% as good as, and maybe even a bit better than the ported slide.

All that said, let me make some notes, for people who have unrealistic expectations.

There are 2 aspects of handgun recoil - how hard it comes back at you (ft lbs), and how hard the muzzle flips up (muzzle rise).
They are related (a lot of ft-lbs will make a lot of muzzle rise), but they are not the same. A full size comp will reduce both of those things. Micro comp

This thing works WAY better than I expected. I expected it would be basically a thread protector, with barely noticeable (but noticeable) recoil reduction. Wow, this reduced a lot more than "barely noticeable" amounts of recoil on my 43X MOS. With the gun fully decked out (Streamlight TLR7sub, Holosun EPS, +5 magazine) and this comp, I was able to mag-dump 20 rounds as fast as I could run the trigger (and I can run a trigger pretty fast) into an approx 14 by 14 inch target (end of a stump) at 10 yards, and keep the dot on the target under recoil. Without this comp, the dot 100% rises above the target with every shot.

Also, for comparison, I shot this exact same gun with

a) A uncomp'ed barrel
b) an extended and ported (at the tip) barrel
c) A Micro Dagger C1 slide (the slide itself has ports in the end) (note: no red dot on this one)

This comp worked significantly better than the stock/uncomp'ed barrel. It worked very noticeably better than extended+ported barrel (which surprised me). And, I am shocked to say, this comp worked 100% as good as, and maybe even a bit better than the ported slide.

All that said, let me make some notes, for people who have unrealistic expectations.

There are 2 aspects of handgun recoil - how hard it comes back at you (ft lbs), and how hard the muzzle flips up (muzzle rise).
They are related (a lot of ft-lbs will make a lot of muzzle rise), but they are not the same. A full size comp will reduce both of those things. Micro comp

The S-One is my all-time favorite handguard. In particular, I like the nice round/smooth contour where my hand wraps around the handgaurd. I don't know why other manufacturers don't do theirs the way this one is, with picatanny rail only at the front and rear, and smooth in the middle. I don't know about you, but I have never once mounted anything on a 12 oclock picatinny rail in the middle of the handguard - it's either like a front sight or somesuch I mount at the far end, or if I trust the mounting system of the handguard (and I trust the one on the S-One), the front scope ring of a LPVO at the back end. So in my view, the full length picatinny rail that most handguards come with is a waste, and uncomfortable to wrap my hand around to boot. The S-One gets it right with the smooth contours in the middle where I wrap my hand around it.

I also like the lockup method, I find it very solid, much better than just the simple "clamp-on" type handguards.

And last, but certainly not least, I love the weight (or lack thereof) on these handguards. These are almost as light as the ultra-light handguards from other manufacturers that sell for twice as much (or more).

As my budget allows, I am slowly going through the process of converting all my guns to these handguards. I like them that much. Unfortunately, everyone else does too and so the price on these keeps creeping up (they were around $100 when they were first introduced) - but they are still pretty affordable compar

The S-One is my all-time favorite handguard. In particular, I like the nice round/smooth contour where my hand wraps around the handgaurd. I don't know why other manufacturers don't do theirs the way this one is, with picatanny rail only at the front and rear, and smooth in the middle. I don't know about you, but I have never once mounted anything on a 12 oclock picatinny rail in the middle of the handguard - it's either like a front sight or somesuch I mount at the far end, or if I trust the mounting system of the handguard (and I trust the one on the S-One), the front scope ring of a LPVO at the back end. So in my view, the full length picatinny rail that most handguards come with is a waste, and uncomfortable to wrap my hand around to boot. The S-One gets it right with the smooth contours in the middle where I wrap my hand around it.

I also like the lockup method, I find it very solid, much better than just the simple "clamp-on" type handguards.

And last, but certainly not least, I love the weight (or lack thereof) on these handguards. These are almost as light as the ultra-light handguards from other manufacturers that sell for twice as much (or more).

As my budget allows, I am slowly going through the process of converting all my guns to these handguards. I like them that much. Unfortunately, everyone else does too and so the price on these keeps creeping up (they were around $100 when they were first introduced) - but they are still pretty affordable compar

I ordered this for a Palmetto State Armory dagger pistol I have with a red dot on it. Faxon has a good reputation for accuracy at reasonable cost, so I thought I'd give it a whirl. Barrel arrived today, dropped in to the Dagger without fitting, and locked up nice and tight (noticeably tighter than the factory barrel did). Took it out back, leaned up against a tree, and test-fired a 5 round group using some medium-ish accurate handloads (124 XTP's over Power Pistol, which is not a powder known to produce great accuracy). Wow - I had to do a double-take - 2 inches at 25 yards measured center-to-center. I am confident I can't hold the gun any tighter than maybe 1 to 1.5 inches at 25 yards, so that's freaking amazing accuracy!!!! I don't think I've ever shot a sub-3 inch group with a handgun at 25 yards in my life, not with any ammo or any gun I've ever used.

Oh, and it looks cool to boot, with the logo and the big X on top.

I'm definitely a believer - I'm off to go order another Faxon glock barrel (threaded this time) as soon as I finish typing this.

This rail is solid as a rock once it's installed, and very heavy duty. I would have no qualms about mounting anything you can mount to a rail using this rail. I think if you battered one of the accessories hard enough to dislodge it from the rail, the rail will still be attached and unmoved. It is the same basic design as the very expensive KAC quad rail that is used by the US military. To be fair, I would be confident the KAC is made of higher grade materials, is better finished, and has better QC, but the fundamental "how does it work" is identical as far as I can tell.

The reviews saying it is hard to install are Doing it Wrong(tm). You simply align place the rear of the handguard into the barrel nut and press it back against the delta ring until it is far enough in for the front of the handguard to snap into place around the handguard cap. Repeat with the other half, and then screw the halves together with a reasonable amount of torque (I did mine to the German Standard (good-and-tight), which I'd guess was probably around 40-50 inch pounds. Blue loc-tite recommended if you're going to put it on a hard use gun.

The only downside I can see to this rail, is the weight - it came in at 12.7 oz on my kitchen scale (vs 5 to 6 for a typical carbine handguard), so you'll be adding almost half a pound to your gun. But to make it lighter, you'd have to remove material, and then you'd end up with a less heavy duty handguard - such is life.

I have several of these I have picked up over the years, and I have had zero/no issues out of any of them. This upper is a first rate no-nonsense piece of hardware for a very reasonable price considering what all you get with it. Chrome lined barrel, front sight base, lightweight (but not pencil) barrel, comes out of the box ready to attach to an upper and take it shooting.

Accuracy is very reasonable for a chrome lined barrel, about 2.5MOA with 55 grain junk/mil-spec ammo, about 1.25MOA with 69 grain match grade stuff. The barrel weight is just about perfect for a patrol/pack it around type rifle - not as light as a true pencil barrel, but not as heavy as a government profile barrel. Pencil barrels tend to overheat after just a few rounds and accuracy suffers, and heavier barrels are just not a lot of fun if you have to carry the rifle around all day. This is right in the middle - will take a fairly reasonable string of semi-auto fire before it gets to hot, but still light enough you won't mind carrying it around in the field all day.

Coupled with a standard mil-spec-ish lower and a rear flip sight of some kind, you'll end up with a rifle that's about 5.8lbs dry weight. Add something like a Sig Romeo red dot and a fully loaded 30 round pmag, and you'll be just a whisker over 7lbs at cocked-locked-and-ready-to-rock-doc weight. A typical AR comes in closer to 8.5 to 9lbs in ready-to-rock state.

There are a few caveats: the 1:9 twist barrel would be right on the edg

This is easily the best lightweight barrel on the market for a number of reasons.

1) Weight - at 19 oz for a 16" barrel, nobody else sells a lighter one.
2) Price - usually runs around $150 to $175, depending on if you catch a sale or not, which is an excellent deal for a barrel at this level of quality.
3) Accuracy - ultra-light barrels have a reputation for poor accuracy. Both my barrel and a friend of mine who has the same barrel hang in the 2.5 MOA camp with cheap-o FMJ ammo, and can get down into the 1.5 MOA range with match grade ammo. That's not benchrest accuracy, but it's plenty good for an AR15 that you're not shooting 500 yard matches with.
4) Consistency - ultra-light barrels have a reputation for a wandering zero once they get hot. This one does not seem to share that issue - point of impact does not wander as it heats, at least not enough for me to notice.
5) Accuracy when hot - most ultra-light barrels get pretty bad for accuracy when you get them really hot. This one does open up a bit if you get it scorching hot, but just a bit, nothing overly dramatic.

As with all pencil barrels, it does get hot FAST, so probably not the best choice if you do a lot of mag dumps, but it does also cool off much faster than a heavier profile, so if you do get it disturbingly hot now and then, you won't have to wait too long for it to cool back down.

All in all, highly recommended. This is the best barrel on the market if you want to build a sub-6lb gun. With a li