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Regret. Shim was twisted - No instructions
The external packaging and label were beat up and shop worn when it arrived and the insructions were missing.
The shim is twisted from being stamp cut and crudely ground on the ends - it is not remotely flat and the edge was not true - plus it turned out to be less than .020.
The flat on the top of the jig was full of machine marks and the gap for the sear was sloppy and needed to be shimmed with tape even when testing the fit with a new Wilson Combat bullet proof sear. (no need for fitting...)
My pistol has many quality Ed Brown parts in it, I don't know what happened here. I regret not sending it back immediately and trying to use it.
The shim is twisted from being stamp cut and crudely ground on the ends - it is not remotely flat and the edge was not true - plus it turned out to be less than .020.
The flat on the top of the jig was full of machine marks and the gap for the sear was sloppy and needed to be shimmed with tape even when testing the fit with a new Wilson Combat bullet proof sear. (no need for fitting...)
My pistol has many quality Ed Brown parts in it, I don't know what happened here. I regret not sending it back immediately and trying to use it.
Would recommend: No
Good tool for working on your own 1911 pistol sear.
Great fixture for holding and stoning 1911 pistol sears. This makes the job much easier. Holds the sear in position to dress the angle of contact correctly without error.
Pros:
- Reduces angle error.
Cons:
- The price is high for one job.
Best Used for:
- 1911 triger job
Would recommend: Yes
Great little Sear Jig
If you just want a sear jig just for a 1911, this works just fine. Very easy to use and very intuitive. Ed brown made a great little item here.
Would recommend: Yes
trick to using
So it depends on which sear you are working with. For the sear on a Taurus PT 1911 I had to place a shim between the adjustment screw and the base of the sear. Ideally you would want to polish across the tip of the sear, tangential to the arc of the sear rotation (assuming the sear and hammer alignment are correct). It is a little difficult to judge the angle at which the sear should be held without a mark on the top of the jig and this issue was not discussed in the instructions from Ed Brown.
Using a fine Arkansas stone, and the shim provided, I made smooth work of the job using this jig. The poorly finished MIM sear that came from Taurus cleaned up very nicely. Now I have a clean and solid trigger. I also have a tool that can be used for many future trigger jobs, especially when I order a better quality hammer and sear (soon).
Before reassembly, I found it very useful to briefly mount the hammer and sear on the outside of the frame using extended pins. This allowed me to directly examine the hammer/sear interaction using a jeweler's loop to assure correct (90 degree) alignment between the tip of the sear and the hammer hooks.
You also need a 1000 grit 90 degree stone to do the hammer hooks. I was able to find that on amazon.
Using a fine Arkansas stone, and the shim provided, I made smooth work of the job using this jig. The poorly finished MIM sear that came from Taurus cleaned up very nicely. Now I have a clean and solid trigger. I also have a tool that can be used for many future trigger jobs, especially when I order a better quality hammer and sear (soon).
Before reassembly, I found it very useful to briefly mount the hammer and sear on the outside of the frame using extended pins. This allowed me to directly examine the hammer/sear interaction using a jeweler's loop to assure correct (90 degree) alignment between the tip of the sear and the hammer hooks.
You also need a 1000 grit 90 degree stone to do the hammer hooks. I was able to find that on amazon.
Pros:
- solid, well made
Cons:
- needs more detailed instructions on setup
Best Used for:
- a necessity for proper trigger job
Would recommend: Yes
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