Not as robust as a standard pin - Guntec USA AR-15 Complete Anti-Rotation Trigger/Hammer Pin Set

I bought several of these sets to protect the trigger group holes of my AR15/45 lowers. The concept seemed to make sense, however the materials used are not nearly as strong as a standard solid hammer/trigger pin. First thing you notice is that the "pins" are just a hollow tube, with a lateral hole part way down. I assume this is for lubrication.

The first time I fired an AR45 with them installed, the screws loosened up and fell out and the "bones" blocked the trigger. I assumed this was from poor locktite, so I reapplied and reinstalled. This seemed to solve the problem, but on each post firing inspection I had one screw that would never tighten fully. I assumed this might be from a stripped thread.

Unfortunately, my previously perfect AR45 began to "slam fire" (a lot) randomly, but with increasing frequency. The post cleaning disconnector/safety function checks were always good and I began to look at other causes. This happened between 200-500 rds. Finally a disconnector function check started to show intermittent failures and I noticed the disconnector hook was not centered on the hammer hook. I disassembled the trigger group and discovered the hammer pin had broken at the hole I mentioned. This is why that screw would not fully tighten. It appears the broken pin would move just enough to cause the misfires and then eventually realign after manual or semi-auto cycling. The misalignment also damaged the disconnector hook. When I replaced disconnector and used solid pins,the disconnector hook centered on the hammer hook and functioned normally.

Now possibly a blowback AR45 exerts more force (even with a heavier buffer and spring) than a 5.56/.223/.300BLK during cycling, I haven't fired those calibers enough with these anti-rotation pins installed. However, a walking pin is easier to fix than a broken one in the field. FYI if everything was OK prior to anti-rotation pin installation, this may be the cause of your problem.
A solid pin, threaded on both ends with a cap screw or welded "screw head" on one end and threaded with a cap screw on the other may be a better design.