Works on odinworks barrels that have way closer shoulder to the gas port - SLR Dimpling Jig Gas Block

This dimple jig works opposite of other jigs like KAK dimple jig. If you are needing 500 spacing, you need to put the screw with a hole into that hole. Then you go on the opposite side and screw in the bolt with no hole, this one will go into the gas port hole of the barrel. On KAK dimple jig you have a hole that correlates to spacing and you take that hole into the gas hole of the barrel, on SLR it's opposite. So, be mindful of a difference, or you will screw up your barrel and gas port spacing.
The bad part about this jig is that unless you know the spacing to be 500 (like Aero Precision adjustable gas block) then you are left guessing. You would not be able to measure the proper spacing because screw with a hole on SLR protrudes well above, and there is not 2nd screw to measure against. Essentially in my case I knew it needs to be 500, because I did 2 more gas blocks with KAK dimple jig.

The reason why SLR is superior here is that you can clearly see how deep you have drilled the dimple by taking off the screw with a hole, when you work. On KAK you won't be able to tell that good, and left to take off the jig with KAK, just to see.

KAK is a respectable jig, I don't have an issue with it, but for barrels such as Odinworks Stainless 416R, you can't use KAK, because the shoulder of the jig will prevent you from properly aligning with a gas port, as shoulder of the barrel where it is taller on the barrel will prevent a nicely timed gas port hole.

So KAK is excellent where you are allowed to go further, and where shoulder of the barrel is further away. I did 3 barrels with KAK and had zero issues, such as Ruger, Trybe and Ballistic Advantage Hanson barrels. But Odinworks immediately showed that I need SLR dimple jig, as in this case you have a screw that sits way closer to the end/shoulder of the jig, it makes a HUGE difference.

I suggest owning both SLR and KAK for those reasons, because with KAK you can measure hole spacing with a caliper. On SLR you must know the spacing already.

Keep that in mind, and also make sure you buy Cobalt Drill bit. It will dimple the barrel in just 2-5 minutes, versus 30-40 if you use regular drill bit. Also regular drill bits can snap on Stainless steel, and on CMV barrels, it happened to me several times, and then I invested in Cobalt. If you have Titanium drill bit, use that. It's not as strong as Cobalt, but it will work as well.

Don't underestimate Cobalt, as it will instantly begin to drill away material, and yes you can drill through your barrel completely. Always check work and go slow.