What is the torque spec for the clamp on .875? — 4 Answers

instructions that came on the .750 said not to exceed 30 inch lbs

Manufacturers website says not to exceed 30 lb-in, but no actual spec.

It comes in the packaging/directions as I know years ago they mostly left the builder to basically know already what they should be doing by giving really not enough info for those that haven’t built a bunch of AR’s. Now they’re simple single folding page of directions that’s barely a leaflet does a very good job of explaining all you need to know like torque specs on the set screws. First if you don’t dimple the barrel then do NOT buy this model and instead buy the clamp on version since dimpling of the barrel is a MUST if you want it to stay together! Buy an SLR or similar jig(I used SLR’s in both .625 and .750 and are super easy and work flawlessly using a cheap $2 stainless steel cutting drill bit)and at least dimple the rear set screw if you’re not sure that it’s the to stay and will never swap it out so any gas block can be used since the rear dimpled set screw hole is always the same. Or if you know it’s to stay like mine simple both including the front and use at least red loctite or for a for sure never come loose under high heat that can easily liquify the loctite and allow the set screws to come loose so use Rockett that is basically permanent under eben the highest heats so great for hot barrels/gas blocks, but can easily be taken apart by simply soaking the part to come loose in plain old water for around two days and then it can be broken loose. FYI… I’ve installed multiple piston systems from SA and their DI gas blocks and used red loctite for all so far and none have come loose at all, but I haven’t really shot any if my builds so much the barrel got hot enough to liquify the loctite I think so if it’s a setup you want to stay together I highly recommend Rocksett as I bet that’s what I’ll have to do once I have the time to really test each gun and get them nice and hot and only then I’ll know for sure it’ll stay together. FYI… SA told me they don’t use Rocksett and only use loctite and claimed none of their guns from SWAT and LE members came back due to either their DI or piston driven gas blocks coming loose. So like me try loctite since a simple heat gun or even hair dryer heating up the gas block/set screws is way easier to do than wait two days to be able to break the set screws loose. Also they said something like 20-30 or so inch pounds(not foot pounds!)is all that’s required for proper set screw install. I simply hand tighten is bet more than the aforementioned figures, but it’s solid stainless steel and set screws aren’t weak so why not put a little torque on a part that needs to stay out or the gun instantly fails?! So unless you try and break set screws you for sure won’t. These are now my standard at least if not the entire piston system which are SUPER GREAT but now I’m building a true AR10 and need a .875” gas block for my 8.6 Blackout build so am here to get the SLR jig and gas block. Hope this helps you!