Slim Jim from United States, FL Public Profile

I bought three of the gen 2 .308 versions(wish they’d make the gen 3 version like their AR15 model that has a much better designed textured gripping surfaces on the left side and a way better built sort of textured paddle that isn’t on any gen 2 model both .308 and 5.56)and not one fit. I’d mount and it wouldn’t have any clearance to pivot so I took an angle grinder and DESIGNED it CORRECTLY so it’ll fit and function. FYI… if you buy the AR15 model for the .308 it MAY work but most likely like ALL reviewers that say it catches the bolt some times and not the rest… that’s because it’s NOT AS LONG as NEEDED THATS why there is TWO DIFFERENT models BOTH of which are A MUST if you want it to TRULY AND ALWAYS work. FYI… take simple lip stick and apply to bolt catch where you think it binds and apply liberally and install and try and operate and it’ll leave the lip stick only on the places it’s hitting so then you DON’T modify the lower and instead SLOWLY modify a LITTLE at a time to keep the original shape and keeping it smooth and test fit and redo aforementioned steps till it pivots fully WITHOUT hitting the lower or you went to far but still will work. So you need to remove the material behind the bolt hold open button a little at a time while keeping its shape and probably will also need to remove the end of the catch that needs to be removed so it’ll clear the pocket it’s supposed to fit it. I highly recommend leaving the ENTIRE TOP portion of the bolt catch and simply cut the

I ordered this for exactly what it’s listed to fit which is the real deal AR10(not the DPMS gen 1/AKA LR.308)and guess what, too short! And no matter what these pins aren’t at ALL good for your lower. Solid STEEL detents that of course would have to fully protrude through the lugs(pivot or take down)which they leave SLOP in as they aren’t precise(too long but more than enough but not a ton)so you can EASILY HEAR the pin ping and ting as you slightly move the gun that would absolutely give away your position. Also if that wasn’t bad enough it gets waaaay worse… the solid steel detents with JUST ONE INSTALL AND ONE REMOVAL the three detents ALWAYS DIG, GRIND, DESTROY the lowers lugs by LITERALLY BORING itself into the lower since SOFT aluminum ALWAYS loses to HARDENED STEEL so the ENTIRE thing is wrong length that by the way this is the CORRECT pin you need for the DPMS gen 1/LR.308 platforms that 98% of what is sold in the market. ONLY thing I can say good about the pins is they do the job of holding the upper to the lower if you like me bought one of 17 designs junk lowers they pumped out that is OUT OF SPEC(as they went out of business!)so the pivot pin when installed is quarter way already pushed in making it so the upper can’t be pinned at all and when forced I had to chop the pin off just to get the upper off. The only positive if you don’t want your lowers lugs DESTROYED from ANY model pin you choose for ANY model gun KNS sells JUST for the AR15 platform guess they think

First off I want to say the quality of ammo in the past five years or so had gone down extremely especially when Covid hit and has continued to get worse. But gladly S&B are an honest company that cares about the products they put out. Winchester white box 300 ammo is the complete opposite as I ordered five boxes and is the wirst ammo I’ve ever seen in twenty plus years. The ammo had sealed primers which is a great convenience and always smart to have done. Only thing is a few rounds per box of this S&B the sealant around the primers didn’t make it to where it needed to go so not all are properly sealed but most are and the ammo itself looks just fine with zero issues. So don’t think S&B isn’t a top notch ammo maker as they are better than most well known names like Winchester that sells pure trash these days. See my review on the white box 300 rounds on that page as it’s important you read it to possibly save yourself from serious harm or death Orkney’s weren’t seated at all correctly and wrong projectiles put in a lot of what should be used. I have pictures to prove it all.

This ammo is the worst ammo I’ve ever seen from junk reloads to premium high end precision rounds these 300 blackout rounds are pure trash! The casings are at least once fired and reused brass(don’t have chambering scratches and the clear as day extractor dings left on the casings rim that only comes from the round being extracted from the chamber after firing. I won’t shoot a single round of this junk since call me crazy I like my hands, neck, face, eyes, etcetera more than I do saving a buck! Ordered five boxes and every single box has some sort of serious, serious issues with the ammo like primers that are smashed during install wrong so much that the primer was smashed into the rim of the bottom side of the casing rolling it and leaving a descent amount high so that with just chambering found very very easily have a slam fire minus the slam! So to be clear a live primer isn’t below the bottom of the casing so anything like the bolt slamming it home in the chamber will cause it to most likely go off and that’s assuming it still even functions since again it was crushed so bad at the factory it’s so mangled who knows until the triggers pulled. Also found what I thought was a projectile that was forced to far into the casing which is also highly dangerous since pressures go up very much the more the projectile is inserted into the casing that even scarier has sone random 7.62 diameter projectile but clearly different in both length and surely weight. So tell me how in a box

First is they are TERRIBLE for penetrating anything except flesh and that I’m only guessing on in regards to how it performs against man. So if the threat is behind a THING AT ALL like a car door, window, drywall, plywood, etcetera count on the ENTIRE front of the hollow point(the hollow part)exploding on contact leaving ONLY the VERY TINY BASE of the projectile MAYBE continuing on to the actual threat! That’s not a good thing since these rounds are already super light weight and to have at LEAST HALF the projectile blown apart passing threw ANYTHING leaving MAX 30 grains of projectile LEFT to stop the threat… not good! Also optics sell these same 40 cal’s for $20.99 a box and NOW raised the price to ridiculous prices so I HIGHLY suggest looking into underwood’s extreme penetrators that go through 6”x6” SOLID wood BEAMS like they weren’t even there and after digging out the projectile from the ballistic gel it was in good enough shape it could of fit sure been reloaded even though I wouldn’t ever recommend that. I asked optic to match their OWN price and ordered ELEVEN boxes of this and said at checkout in comments to MATCG THEIR OWN prices OR SIMPLY CANCEL the ammo off my order and instead they SHIPPED ANYWAYS BUT thing is in the END I’ll WIN HUGE for that COMPLETE LACK OF RESPECT to a customer that’s BEEN BUYING SO MANY HIGH END parts for MAAANY YEARS and if they didn’t want to match THEIR prices then they SHOULD of done me RIGHT like be ALWAYS done them as I’ve sent a TON

I finally received my vest, and even for the lower price than vests we all should be buying(shouldn’t be cheap when it comes to our armor/life!)I expected much more out of all the materials used except for the internal ballistic material. The vest absolutely requires trauma pads as their own video here proves as each round punched holes through the back side of the front of the vest(never seen that unless the round penetrated through ballistic material first)where your belly/chest would be and for sure would break ribs at the least. The mesh is super cheap feeling so much I bet it’ll rip with just a guess max 25 install/removal of the vest with care taken and would bet anything it’ll fail fast. The foam/padding is so cheap and thin once you push on it just once it never fluffs back to being padding as it becomes a flattened piece of super thin extra cheap foam. Also I highly recommend buying a size OR TWO up from what you wear especially if your stomach isn’t LITERALLY flat a board since even with my skinny body the bigger size than I really need doesn’t fit around my mid section(zero belly!)without the Velcro wanting to pop off and on top of that is super tight and has to be, just so the straps will reach fully on both front and rear(don’t get why they don’t sew in the back sides of the straps since that’s the side they pop off of). Also the vest is very, very rigid! Obviously it’ll need worn in better to conform to my body, but even then super thick ballistic material insid

These are way over priced and for what? 10% heavier at best? Meaning it simply goes a little deeper into the threat… but who cares?! As long as it goes in and all Liberty’s ammo more than does, than does it really matter if it goes 12” in like normal better FULLY NICKEL coated rounds do compared to these SUB PAR cheaper finish coated casings that is simply a gimmick as I guarantee you the black finish isn’t as good and easy to clean as nickel that go in best case 16”. These stats I got directly from the mouth of a liberty employee(check for yourself). I myself am not barely 16” thick as a guess, being 6.2’ and 185 pounds being bigger than most all normal sized people can’t imagine over penetration wouldn’t be a very big issue. And worst part at $54 a box of $20… is it Covid again?! Don’t pay this way over inflated price and instead checkout other companies that have more effective rounds for around half less the cost like the external hollow point type rounds that look similar to a phillips head screw driver. FYI… shooting these and the better nickel coated versions is the same and seriously doubt a measly ten grains of weight will give a huge difference in penetration and again if it does, then I’d rather the threat catch my projectiles than the innocent that could be behind it! Way over priced.

I’ve been looking for these exact style bands, not to thick, and not to thin, and also not pre-molded. These bands are slightly grippy, but doesn’t have issues with lint or dirt clinging to it. Installed one of the three in my G43X which felt nice before band grip wise, but after band placed in the center part of the grip and it’s great. Not a huge difference, but a benefit in multiple ways that mainly of course is an all around better grip. Also installed one on a polymer 80 GLOCK knock off frame that has the terrible 1911ish showed grip that under extremely fast firing is much harder to control than a GLOCK frame, but now the grippy band added does help in regards to grip only as the angle of the frame hasn’t changed, but did make it better and for a fair price of $7.99 for a three pack of bands. If price went up, I personally wouldn’t rebuy since they’re just a thin band of rubber. But at normal price I aforementioned is fair and recommend buying when back in stock(bought the last two).

Great optic. For those that complain about the mount flopping around, it’s 100% your fault as you clearly can’t use a quick detach system. If it’s loose then simply tighten the screw/bolt on the opposite side of the lever a little at a time till the lever closes and it’s snug, not super tight, nor loose either and you’ll have zero issues with it being loose or falling off since it has a built in safety so the lever can’t come loose on its own so requires zero loctite either. Sort of heavy but does have a thick layer of rubber fully covering the optics body which is great for bumps and dings. Clear lenses, mount flips nicely to either side you choose as it can be swung to either side of your lefty. Doesn’t have a button to push to swing to side, but does have solid detent on both out if the way or inline with red dot that holds it in place so it won’t just flop over if you tilt your gun. Sale price is worth the money, at full price I’d opt for a better optic for less like a Sig or Vortex. But great for the price, I got five!

I don’t know where to start, the threading, finish coating……! The threads with a naked eye can see the threads are barely there in places as it was clearly not done right the first time so at the very least required one extra pass to try and fix the threads that were cut with the die not being perfectly straight on the barrel. So the thread protector barely goes on and of course has the super rough almost grinding feeling as it’s twisted all the way on. The thread protector has a literal puddle of the clearly not in any way done properly finish coating which in my case is TiN which with my experiences with it it’s WORTHLESS as the finish wear OFF to bare metal first time out no matter how many rounds fired. The fluting can easily see on every single one of them the milling marks that clearly were never at all addressed to what should of been a perfectly smooth finish. And last and surely not least, it has a solid ding on the top of the chamber/hood that was clearly there before finish coating since the coatings still there with zero damage. Also comes with a rubber gasket for thread protector to in theory not back it’s way off the barrel, in theory! But in reality they simply melt and then the aforementioned happens to the thread protector, comp, or worse a thousand dollar suppressor. I mentioned this because without it the thread protector screws way too far on the barrel allowing threads on very end of barrel to be exposed(defeating its purpose)or turn it 180 degrees and th