CiTY HuNTeR from United States, GA Public Profile

I have had great experience with the trybe barrels in other pistols. However, this one is an exception.

I noticed that the chamber won't raise all the way during installation. And it won't rack back. After hammered the bottom of the barrel a little bit, I'm able to rack it. Then it start to have feeding issue. I wish that OP would allow posting photos on comments. You can see clearly that the top of the chamber is a lot wider, which prevents it to seat fully.

I hope this is just a defect or an exception since so many people has posted positive reviews.

The silencerco hybrid 46 suppressor that I bought this case for is still in the NFA jail. So I cannot tell about the heat resistant of this product. It seems to be well made, but I don't think it worth the price asking. The size of it should be good enough for the large hybrid 46 suppressor.

Same as all other European manufacturers, the size is at least 1, maybe 2 sizes smaller than the marking.
You need to buy at least one size bigger than your normal US size.
Quality is okay, but the packaging really can hardly be told as an Italian brand. It only comes with clear plastic back.
And with these final sales, I cannot return.

Same as all other European manufacturers, the size is at least 1, maybe 2 sizes smaller than the marking.
You need to buy at least one size bigger than your normal US size.
Quality is okay, but the packaging really can hardly be told as an Italian brand. It only comes with clear plastic back.

I have this brake on my VEPR 12 for a few years. Originally I just bought it because it is a lot cheaper than Russian brakes. I want something to put on when I'm waiting for a better choice.

I'll have to say that the recoil reduction is really minimal that I can barely feel, as expected from the slotted design. The good thing is it works with the SGM choke. So I just use it as a thread protector for the choke.

This adapter used to be the only option if you get one of the slanted receiver VEPRs.
I wanted to make a wood-looking VEPR conversion, so I bought this thing. The adapter itself seems to be sturdily made out of steel. However, it's actually narrower than the standard stamp receiver so you have to modify the stock to get it to work for you.
CNC Warrior made some triangular stocks now with slanted back. So you can get a folding metal stock from them. I'd say that it's probably a better choice. But if you are like me, you want wood furniture, this would be the only choice. And it performs well so far after a couple of hundreds of rounds.

Bought this plate to use for my Ruger 57.

Good quality, installation is easy but need to try out different sizes of Torx wrenches because the manual didn't say.
I have a spare Romeo Zero so I bought this plate to use with that. I first put on the red dot and it won't lid up. When I checked I noticed that as I screw down the 2 screws, the red dot plastic body bent. So the battery on the front doesn't have good contact. It's an issue with the dot, not the plate. So I decided to use the metal shield that sig included with the sight. And the issue is that this plate has 4 metal bumps to locate the red dot. However, the metal shield doesn't have 2 front holes. Tossed in between drilling holes on the metal shield or Dremel off the bumps on the plate. Then I got a friend to sand off the bumps, everything goes together and the dot works great. One star was taken off for the need to modify the plate. The good news is this plate is replaceable.

Another thing I need to add after reading the other review is, the description on OP is NOT CORRECT.
This thing only fits Jpoint, shield, and Sig's dots. Doesn't fit the Vortex Venom. The Vortex model is MPN: 90720. And this one is 90723.

Do not go with what's said on the retailer's website, go with the MPN number. I first find this plate from Ruger, and then came here to find it based on the MPN. My suggestion is to find the correct MPN for your red dot from the manufacturer's website, then use that code to buy. Even if the description i

Bought this for my M&P 2.0 Compact Optic Ready, which has a 4.0-inch barrel from the factory.

Was a bit skeptical about the quality given all the bad reviews it gets. But decided to give it a try with the easy return policy. And I'll try to answer some of the issues I read from other reviews.

I ordered the Golden color since it's only 10 bucks more. It does give the gun a custom image along with the SRO sitting on top, APEX red metal trigger, and FDE PL-PRO light on the rail. But a bit too high profile with that Trybe mark on the chamber.

Accuracy is at least on par with the factory shooting Tula steel case. Didn't get enough time to try better ammo due to the COVID shortage. But I am impressed with the quality. Fitment is also good, direct drop-in, and I don't even need to adjust the zero on the red dot. Shoots tight group at 25 yards right away. The base of the thread is about 2mm ahead of the slide which is less than ideal to me, but I get the reason for that. If a can got stuck you could have more room to put down a wrench to remove it. And the total barrel length is about 0.6 inches longer than the factory (was going to post some photos but don't know how).

The paint seems to be alright. After wiping off the black stuff, the only scuff is on top of the chamber. There are some minor marks on top of the barrel near the muzzle, similar to the famous "Sig smile". I'd assume it might not be as tough as the M&P factory barrel, but should be better than factory coating from

I don't know if this is an issue with the trigger or the gun. I tried a similar trigger on the P10C and they are crisp and the reset is very clear. After replacing my MP2.0 trigger, the reset is super short but not audible and hard to feel with the finger. Also, if you do not have a press I'd suggest getting a gunsmith. Tutorial videos saying that replacing the slide parts is harder, but I found those are easier than finally dropping the trigger onto the trigger bar. I ended bent the trigger bar and had to hire a gunsmith.

Love this all-steel endplate especially for the price. It's cheaper and stronger than most other aluminum or soft steel plates. Staking takes a bit more effort than aluminum ones, but it gave me ultra confidence that it won't come loose or come busted if I use the QD point with slings.